The IFSC World Cup Series 2024 has moved to Wujiang, China, simply across the nook from Keqiao. With the change in venue, the self-discipline has additionally modified, with extra concentrate on lead and velocity.
First of all, there are lead {qualifications}.
In the boys’s competitors, many climbers achieved excessive rankings, and 4 climbers shared first place within the general rankings. Britain’s Toby Roberts, America’s Colin Duffy and Japan’s pair of Taisei Honma and Sorato Anraku all topped each routes and superior to the semi-finals of the competitors.
South Korea’s Lee Do-hyun was the one different climber to high the climb, ending in fifth place. Japan can have 11 representatives in 26 groups, with Boulder World Cup Kebashi winner Chia Narasaki becoming a member of teammates Anraku and Honma.
Another Boulder World Cup medalist from Keqiao, Belgium’s Hannes van Duysen, will even advance to the semi-finals, the place he can be joined by defending Lead World Cup winners Sacha Lehmann (Switzerland) and Luka Potkar (Slovenia).
Australian future Olympian Campbell Harrison loved a begin to the Olympic 12 months, ending twenty fourth. Harrison stated: “This is my third consecutive Reed World Cup semi-final look and solely 5 instances in whole I’ve made it to the semi-finals so I’m fairly excited.” And I nonetheless felt like my lead wasn’t excellent, so it was good to have the ability to maintain all of it the way in which and have a good spherical. The season has began properly to this point, in order that’s a great signal for Paris.”
Similar to the boys’s rankings, the ladies’s rankings had been additionally lined up with double tops and acquainted names. No one is aware of the highest of the leaderboard higher than Janja Garnbret. With 2 tops, the Slovenians will advance to the semi-finals once more.
This result’s matched by Italy’s Laura Rogola and native favourite Luo Zhilu. She can be hoping her crowd will give her just a little extra of a lift heading into her competitors.
The different two athletes who took the lead on this route had been France’s Manon Hilly, who handed in fourth place, and South Korea’s Seo Chae-hyun, who handed in fifth place.
Highley stated: “The route was excellent and really sturdy. I feel it is my type to simply give 100%. I like this wall as a result of it’s totally protruding, and the route setter is excellent at working the route. He adjusted it for me and it was very straightforward to climb.”
There is rising curiosity in Zhang Yuetong, who has already certified for the 2024 Paris Games and made it by the qualifying rounds in eleventh place, to compete at dwelling within the semi-finals.
Zhang stated, “It felt higher than I anticipated. I have not carried out a lot lead coaching, so I feel the way in which I climbed it was just a little completely different, however I’m glad that I climbed it properly.The second route was my specialty, so , I climbed properly. I have not skilled the lead very a lot, so I haven’t got a lot stamina.
“I used to be just a little nervous earlier than the competitors as a result of everybody is aware of I’ve a ticket to the Olympics. So possibly they had been anticipating me to be actually sturdy. Boulder World Even within the Cup, individuals instructed me they had been trying ahead to me climbing the lead, however I hadn’t skilled that a lot and I did not need to disappoint them.”
Kim Jae-in of South Korea, who’s competing in her a hundredth World Cup and ranks fourth in ladies’s historical past, will be part of teammates Seo and Cho Ga-young, who superior to the following spherical in twenty sixth place.
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